peru – Page 2 – pmoroni.it

Andahuaylas, Apurimac

10 October 20178 November 2003 by moro

The journey by minibus (colectivo) climbs with exaggerated steepness starting from 2300 meters above sea level of Abancay to get well over 4000 meters and finally descend again. The route runs through the district of Apurimac, one of the most isolated and wild in Peru. We reach Andahuaylas late at night. The long journey is enlivened by music and the human contact that is created in the minibus filled up to bursting with people, things and animals. A baby named Annibal and his young mother sit next to me.

The scenery is lovely, and alfalfa fields of maize give way to small villages of adobe houses, a few caws, where humans have wisely sweetened the fertile but steep sides of the mountains. The people are very welcoming and nice.

Incas land, Cusco and Pisac

10 October 20177 November 2003 by moro

Getting to Cusco when the last rays of sun lapping the weary slopes of the valley of the Incas is one of the dreams of every traveler. Cusco is a living testimony of the countless stories of glory and defeat that were woven into the long night of the five hundred years. Breathtakingly beautiful, proud as its indigenous population, but then defeated and disfigured for punishment. Now again a crossroad for pilgrims from around the world, coming to admire the past.

The sunlight beats long adventurous days, moving along the land of the Incas, from Cusco to Abancay, passing through the spectacular ruins of Pisac, less visited but not less spectacular than the nearby mysterious Machu Picchu. The Sacred Valley of the Incas is the valley of the Urubamba River in the Peruvian Andes and was the heart of the Inca civilization. The valley was appreciated for its special geographical and climatic qualities, for its natural resources and for the production of corn. The ruins of Pisac give a feeling of ownership of the mountain, thrilling extreme slopes, vertigo; these stones breathe a nearly thousand-year history, unparalleled perfection, unique harmony.

From Arequipa to Lake Titicaca

10 October 20175 November 2003 by moro

Back to Arequipa to meet some friends leaving the white city. Yanahuara is a small town closed to Arequipa and we are invited there to join a festival of Arequipa traditions: creole music, chicha (traditional andean maiz beer) and delicious peruvian food (rocoto relleno, pastel de papa, chicharron and cuy). Arequipa is a nice discovery: the city is beautiful with heritage buildings (cathedral, convent, Juanita), breath-taking landscapes, friendly people.

The following day, upon saying goodbye to all the friends found in arequipa, we travel towards the beautiful Titicaca Lake, aiming to join the festival called semana de Puno.

Condor and Colca valley

10 October 201730 October 2003 by moro

At the station in Arequipa, few travelers mingle with the multitude of people who return to their villages of origin, after a visit to relatives in town or after a day’s work. They are natives who go in many small pueblos that dot the Andean valleys. We follow a similar route and head to the Colca Valley, we cross lands lashed by a cold wind, the Andean paramo and steps that reach 5000 meters. We are surrounded by pastures, flocks of llamas and alpacas and meager huts of Aymara farmers who live following their animals in the perpetual movements in search of forage. The nomadic life. We arrive in Chivay, a village at the mouth of the Colca Valley, where the atmosphere is extremely quiet and where there are still strong ties with ancient life styles. To prove it, a subtle distrust that local people show towards us. Time seems to be suspended in this valley, the life cycle chases the sun and the technology did not upset this delicate balance with the electricity. Chivay is situated about 3800 meters above sea level and that in itself would be enough to make life tough: the soroche, as it is defined in the local language altitude sickness, relentless strikes those who are not born to such a life. The children are curious along the paths that lead to their huts outside the village, bringing with them some animals, often sheep or alpacas. This is their daily task, instead of the school. They smile. On the slopes of the mountains surrounding the valley, looking carefully, you can see disparate groups of vicunas, the only species of Andean camelid that has not agreed to be domesticated and continues his lonely existence in the most inaccessible places in the Andean cordillera. Higher up, in the clear sky of the morning, sail unperturbed rare condors of the Andes, the real rulers of this majestic paradise. In Pinchollo, faded images of a distant past resurface in the timid glances of the people, and they tell us …

“I was chewing coca four years old
alpacas were faster than me
I was still chewing coca ten years old
the ground was harder than I
I was still chewing coca twenty years old
the children were crying louder than me
Now I am almost thirty years old
and I continue to chew coca
because my children have left
but I was too sad wherefore
death would take me too
and time to weep
Here on the plateau, there is none”

Arequipa and Juanita, Inca ice maiden

10 October 201729 October 2003 by moro

Arequipa, a jewel set in the wide valleys of southern Peru Andean plateau, is known from the Peruvians as the white city. A quiet and hospitable city, where to acclimatize before the rise in remote parts of the Andes. The drown tops of three volcanoes brush the city, the misti (gentleman, with its perfectly conical shape), the Chachani (beloved) and Picchu Picchu (high high) in the Quechua language. In the basement at the Convent of Santa Catalina, in an eternal embrace, lies the mummy of a girl (nicknamed Juanita, or Inca ice maiden) sacrificed in a ritual at Mount Ampato by the Incas 500 years ago. The encounter with a “viejo loco”, as he introduced himself, gives us a glimpse of Latin America, sitting in a tiny square of Arequipa, under the shade of some orange trees in bloom, we begin a long conversation on the life and traditions of the Andes and Arequipa. He traveled widely as a young man, being a street artist, and his memories are still bright. We discussed the magical combination of moods, colors, flavors, music and experiences that brings the traveler in his pilgrimage. In Arequipa it’s easy to meet lots of people, also because the climate is very hospitable. We receive an invitation to the home of a boy, out of town. We get to know their grandparents, who take care of alfalfa and corn fields and prepare for us a rich and delicious lunch accompanied by abundant traditional chicha, a fermented drink produced from corn. Sitting around the fire we eat and listen with interest the story of their lives, amid joys and sacrifices. After lunch, we learn the basics needed to play the Quena, the typical flute used in Andean music.